Lecture for anime fans
Guest ● Leiji Matsumoto
Cooperation
● West Cape Corporation
● Bandai Co., Ltd.
A solid model from my youth
This month’s guest is Mr. Leiji Matsumoto, the original author of Space Battleship Yamato and Galaxy Express 999. We asked Mr. Matsumoto, who is famous as a model maniac, about models.
(M: Mr. Matsumoto, Q: Editorial department)
Q: You are famous as a model maniac, but what kind of models do you often make?
M: I’m not originally a plamo maniac, but a solid model maniac, and I’ve made a lot of models of real things. Many of our generation are solid model fans. That’s because there were no plamodels at the time, so we had to carve wood. Even now, all the things in my reference cabinet are solid models, not plamodels. There are a lot of airplanes, but if you tell young people today that they’re all made of wood, they’ll be shocked. (Laughs)
Q: What is the fun of solid models?
M: First of all, solid models are fun because you can carve a simple wooden stick into the shape you want. It’s a little different from plamodels, which are just glued together. Even the painting is difficult, because you have to make the wood look like metal.
Even for a single pipe, you have to make it yourself, so finding the materials is difficult, but that’s one of the fun parts. I think the last thing I built was a Shiden, but it was a long time ago, so I’m a little hazy on that. (Laughs)
Q: What do you pay the most attention to when making a model?
M: Well, when I make models for my own enjoyment, I think the scale is important. No matter how wonderful the real thing is, if the scale is too large, it won’t look right, and conversely, if you make it too small, it won’t feel right either. I think the scale you choose has a big impact on how the model turns out.
When I build things, there are solid model standards of 1/30, 1/50, and 1/48, so I make them at those scales. Also, many plans for these models are sold.
Q: It seems like it would be quite difficult to make a solid model…
M: The steps in making a model start with deciding what you want to make, how you want to make it, and choosing the scale and materials. You also need to think about how long it will take.
To give it a realistic feel, I sometimes deliberately deviate from the blueprints. For example, while the three-view drawings show the parts in their exact positions, if gluing them exactly as shown doesn’t capture the right atmosphere, I might glue them in a more visible position instead. This involves some rearrangement, which is a matter of personal preference. I also emphasize certain parts by making the engravings deeper or the fillets more pronounced.
LEFT: Mr. Leiji Matsumoto
RIGHT: Mr. Matsumoto’s pride and joy: a solid model (former Japanese Army Type 4 Fighter, Hayate). Note the joint between the main wing and fuselage of the airplane.
Then there’s the question of where to place the main focus in its operational state. For example, should I lower the flap halfway, fully lower it, or raise it? Should I retract the wheels or extend them? And whether to finish the model as a brand-new piece or as a weathered, battle-worn machine with exhaust fumes and dirt; these details become crucial. This is where preferences clearly diverge, but I personally prefer them half-broken.
Q: So you don’t make many new models that just came out of the factory?
M: That’s right. I usually make things that have a realistic feeling, like cars with holes, bent fenders, or flat tires. For some reason, I don’t feel much attachment to things that just came out of the factory.
Q: Is it the same with plastic models?
M: Yes. I’ve made a lot of plastic models and broken a lot of them. For some reason, plastic models don’t last long at my house. It’s because the adhesive is not good. They often become loose and break or come off easily… (Laughs)
Also, plastic models can be made relatively quickly compared to solid models. Since they’re cheap, I often try to do descent experiments from the second floor and destroy them. But plastic models these days feel like a different era compared to those of the past, and although they’re more difficult to make, the finished product has improved. So I don’t think there’s any need to insist on solid models. You can still enjoy making models with plamodels, and I think you can make good ones. I was born in that era, so I’m just attached to solid models…
Q: What do you pay attention to when making models, not just with plamodels?
M: The painting, I guess. No matter how skillfully you do the work, for example, even if you carefully remove burrs and apply putty, the final result will depend on how well you paint it. No matter how skillfully you work, if the final paint job is off, it just looks unprofessional. So the final paint job is what really decides the outcome.
I like super realism in models and everything, so I don’t like uneven brush strokes that look like they were painted by a human. And then there’s marking. It’s about writing in a way that matches the scale of the model. In short, the paint can’t be raised. Even when removing edges, you want to make sure it doesn’t smudge or bleed. And when it’s finished, you have to check if it looks right when scaled to the size of the model. I think one of the joys of model building is imagining yourself at the same size as the model, operating it, and so on.
Q: What do you think about modern character models?
M: Character models are basically created from illustrations. Usually, when a character is modeled, a blueprint is drawn based on the design, but since the model is based on the blueprint, the shape gradually changes as you go through the steps, and sometimes the character becomes three-dimensional in an unexpected way.
[Translator’s note: “character” in this context does not refer to a human character, but a fictional ship or other craft. In other words, the Battleship Yamato would not be a character model, but the Space Battleship Yamato is.]I still feel a disconnect with Yamato and Arcadia [models]. I thought they could have been a little cooler…but I think that’s a common part of all character models. I think it’s hard work to turn something drawn on a flat surface into a three-dimensional model, but I think it’s good if you can do it without destroying the atmosphere or image of the illustration.
Q: Is there a model that you would like to make in the future?
M: I’m more of an airplane fanatic, so I want to make something like that. I also want to make life-size models. At first glance, it would look like the real thing, but when you touch it, you discover it’s a light plamodel. (Laughs) I think it would be fun to have ridiculous life-size models of things like bikes and TVs.
Q: Finally, do you have anything to say to fans who started building plamodels because of the current anime boom?
M: Yes, there’s a clear difference between a real object model and a character model, so I think it’s okay to make them more freely and enjoy them. Everyone has their own personality. Make them according to your abilities, don’t push yourself too hard, and have fun. You can also modify them to suit your tastes. Basically, I think it’s good to have fun making models.
Leiji Matsumoto says that he has been too busy with work to build models in recent years. There are many models in his workshop, but the quality of the solid models he makes is astounding. Readers, please read this course carefully and try making a beautiful model.
(L to R): Space Battleship Yamato (TV version 1), Farewell to Yamato (theatrical version 2), Be Forever Yamato (theatrical version 3)
Beginner Edition (Part 1)
How did the previous Gundam project go? Was it too easy, and did anyone think it was a joke? But if the basic work is not done properly, it will be impossible to modify it. The most important thing about the basic work is to take each step carefully and firmly. (Don’t cut it by hand!!)
The kit we will use this time is Bandai’s 1/700 scale Space Battleship Yamato New Mechanic Model. In this guide, we’ll focus on detail-up modifications. By “detail-up,” I mean modifying the details to give the finished product a unique touch.
Now, what makes this kit different from other plamodels (not just character models) is that it has already been painted. If you just want to assemble it, this paint is enough, but I’m sure that readers of The Anime wouldn’t assemble it without doing anything, right?
Also, since it is a mechanic model, you can see the inside of Yamato, which is a special feature. However, although this kit is based on Be Forever Yamato specs, it is only a slightly modified version of the old mechanic model, so the parting lines (where the mold was joined) are noticeable, and it can be difficult to determine the position of the parts. Keep these issues in mind when you start working on it.
Now, as for the work, the first thing to do in detail-up is to look at the parts of the kit and decide what to modify and how to modify them. This time, I took advantage of the features of the mechanic model and tried the following modifications:
① Add internal structural materials
② Modify the main and secondary guns
③ Change the convex mold to a concave mold
④ Sharpen the front and rear parts of each wing
These modifications are simple, but if not done carefully, they won’t look good.
First, assemble the parts inside the ship according to the assembly instructions. At this time, apply the paint. Also, do a mock assembly first to make sure there are no gaps or steps between the parts.
Next, the area around the first and second main guns on the deck is concave, but this is not in the anime design, so fill it in. You can use putty to fill small holes, but for large holes, cut a plastic sheet to fit the size of the hole. It is also a good idea to use a runner. After the adhesive has dried sufficiently, it is recommended to apply putty and shape it with sandpaper or water.
Now, as for the internal structure improvement work, for the framework of a ship, you will create something called a bulkhead (the same goes for spaceships and submarines).
When making such modifications, first look at materials related to the model (design sheets, anime magazines, etc.) and draw a rough sketch of what it will look like when completed. Once you have a rough sketch, measure the size of the model and draw a blueprint. Then, it is very convenient to make a gauge (original mold) with 0.5mm plastic sheet. When making the gauge, make it exactly so that it fits the model. You can also make it with Kent paper, but that is quite difficult.
The internal structural materials are made from 1.2mm plastic sheets, but it is important to make them accurately according to the gauge. The process involves aligning the gauge with the plastic sheet, drawing lines (using an oil-based marker or Rotring pen), roughly cutting it out with a cutter, and then shaping it with sandpaper to match the gauge. This ensures it will fit perfectly with the hull.
It’s also interesting to make the auxiliary structural members and panels out of 0.3-0.5mm plastic sheet. Of course, paint them first.
LEFT: The process of working on the structural materials. (Top: Drawings of structural materials, bottom left: Gauges, bottom right: Finished structural materials).
CENTER: Yamato under construction (around the bow).
Next, assembling and modifying the internal parts. Assemble the internal parts according to the assembly instructions. You have to paint the inside of the hull first, since you won’t be able to paint it after assembly.
Once the interior is complete, it’s time to work on the exterior. The most difficult part of assembling the exterior is undoubtedly the bridge and its surroundings. In particular, if the barrels of the anti-aircraft guns are not glued carefully, each barrel will point in the wrong direction. (That’s also Yamato-like and interesting, isn’t it?) Take your time and do this work carefully.
Earlier, I modified the first and second guns by filling in the recesses, but this modification will prevent the first gun turret from rotating, so when you do the mock assembly, you should either file down some of the turret, or fill in the holes so that the turret can rotate.
As for the external modifications, the edge on the front and back of each wing is thick, so it doesn’t look like a wing. So I’ll try to shave it a little thinner and sharper. Although it’s easy to say “shave,” this is not easy to do well, so first roughly file it down with a metal file. At this time, if you make sure that the thickest part of the wing is about 1/3 of the way from the front of the entire wing, the finished product will be neat. Once the rough shape is completed with the metal file, all that’s left is to carefully finish it off with wet paper so as not to leave any scratches, and it’s 0K.
This modification is particularly necessary for the wings behind the conning tower and the missile launcher, the main wings, and the wings of the stern nozzle, and it will change the overall proportions considerably. Also, since the mold of the main wings is convex at this time, it would be interesting for confident people to cut grooves and change it to a concave mold.
The last part of the modification is the work on each of the main and secondary gun turrets. The main gun barrels of this scale Yamato always have closed muzzles, so try opening them up with a pin hole drill or something similar.
The actual method is to first make the muzzle part flat with a file, then draw a cross with a needle or something similar, determine the center point of the drill, lightly drill a hole with a drill knife of about 0.7mm, and then fully drill a hole with a drill knife of about 1mm. Be careful not to let the drill bit move out of the center of the barrel, or it will damage the barrel.
Also, if possible, it’s better to make the fins on the top of the main and secondary guns (three on each turret, protrusions on the upper rear) yourself from 0.5mm plastic sheet. Once you’ve finished modifying, all you have to do is assemble it according to the assembly instructions.
LEFT: Around the living quarters and large workshop. Some of the structural materials have already been glued.
RIGHT: Deck with holes filled.
Finally, paint the whole thing, but special Yamato paint is not available, so use a commercially available plastic paint.
First, the color of the upper part of the hull should be a mixture of half American Navy warship color and half Imperial Japanese Navy warship color.
For the bottom color, it seems best to add a small amount of primary red to a commercially available bottom color to make it a little brighter. If you’re confident in your eyes, you can try mixing plastic colors to match the anime colors of actual cel drawings. Whether it’s Yamato this time or Gundam last time, you can paint it nicely by applying a base coat of light grey before the overall finish coat, then polishing it with 1000 or 1200 grit water-based paper or compound, so please try it. However, when using compound, be careful not to use acrylic resin paints (such as Revell Color) as a base coat.
Well, this time I tried to make modifications using Yamato for beginners. For those who are doing modifications for the first time, it is difficult to do well. Anyway, the quickest way to become good at building models is to build many kits. Especially with modifications, if you fully understand what to build and how to build it, and do work that suits your ability, you will naturally be able to build it well. It is also necessary to develop new techniques yourself.
Next time, I will explain painting in detail in Beginner’s Edition (part 2).
